Everything you need to know about treating post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and fading acne scars: the best ingredients for calming and brightening, plus dermatologist-prescribed treatments for stubborn pigmentation.

I don’t recognize myself in the pictures above, but they weren’t taken too long ago. Just last year, I damaged my skin barrier, had one of the worst breakouts of my life, and spent two months nursing my inflamed skin back to health. But, even after the breakouts healed, I was left with stubborn, patchy dark brown marks that refused to budge.

Unfortunately, as a brown-skinned girl, I know this all too well: any trauma to our skin tends to turn into post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), a constant reminder of our mistakes, even after we’ve fixed them.

One of the cruelest ironies in skincare is when you finally get your acne under control, only to realize the dark marks it leaves behind are going to stick around even longer than your actual pimples ever did. It took me months to fade those post-acne scars, not with quick fixes or miracle serums, but with patience, consistency, and a few very targeted ingredients. Here’s exactly what worked for me, and what might work for you too.

Step 1: Calm the Inflammation Before You Do Anything Else

It’s tempting to jump straight to fading the marks, but here’s the thing: hyperpigmentation isn’t just a color problem. It’s an inflammation problem. And unless you calm that inflammation first, nothing else you do will matter.

When I was recovering from my breakout, I had to fight the urge to throw every brightening ingredient I owned at my skin. Vitamin C! Retinoids! Niacinamide! Kojic acid! But I quickly learned that over-treating inflamed skin just made things worse. So I went back to basics and focused on soothing and repair first.

Ingredients That Helped Calm My Redness and Inflammation

1. Azelaic Acid

Azelaic acid is one of my all-time favorite skincare ingredients. It calms redness, fades pigmentation, and even keeps acne at bay. It’s usually gentle enough for sensitive skin and safe for darker skin tones.

2. Centella Asiatica

This K-beauty superstar is what I reach for when my skin is at its lowest points. Centella is rich in antioxidants and compounds like madecassoside that reduce irritation and help rebuild the skin barrier. It doesn’t fade marks, but it will calm the inflammation that causes them.

3. Green Tea Extract

A highly underrated ingredient in skincare, green tea is full of polyphenols that soothe inflammation and reduce redness. It’s also mildly antibacterial, making it a great companion for post-acne skin that’s still vulnerable to flare-ups.

4. Zinc

Previously relegated to sunscreens, zinc is slowly gaining popularity in more sunscreen formulations for its anti-inflammatory and oil regulation properties.

Products I Recommend

I like sticking to lightweight toners and serums that don’t weigh my skin down or make it feel overburdened. Some of my favorites that combine a few calming ingredients include:

Heveblue Salmon Caring Centella Toner (combines centella asiatica with PDRN, a relatively new skincare ingredient derived from salmon DNA and known for its wound healing capabilities)
Anua Azelaic Acid Redness Soothing Serum (contains both azelaic acid and centella asiatica to help calm inflammation)
Beauty of Joseon Calming Serum: Green Tea + Panthenol (formulated with green tea and mugwort, another calming ingredient, alongside panthenol for hydration)
Bring Green ZINC TECA 1.2% Blemish Serum (combines zinc and centella asiatica)

Step 2: Fade the Marks, with Caution

Once my skin had calmed down, it was time to deal with the pigmentation. This step required more skincare firepower than my calming products could provide. Stronger actives had to be called upon. But fading marks, especially on brown skin, requires strategy. One wrong move, one active too strong, or exfoliant too frequent can backfire and create new dark spots.

Actives That Helped Fade My Acne Marks

I introduced strong actives back into my routine, slowly, and always one product at a time, while continuing to use the calming products as well.

These were the ones that made the biggest difference to my marks.

1. Vitamin C

Vitamin C is a gold-standard brightening ingredient for good reason. It helps brighten the skin, fade pigmentation, and protect against environmental stressors. It has also been shown to boost collagen and help repair sun damage. Unfortunately, pure vitamin C can also be irritating to your skin, and worsen active acne. It’s only to be used once your skin has completely calmed down.

2. Tyrosinase Inhibitors

These ingredients work by interrupting tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production. In essence, they’re stopping the overproduction of melanin before it even starts. I have a separate, more in-depth article about them, but for the purposes of this conversation, I’ll just list some of the most popular ones:

Alpha Arbutin – A gentle but effective pigment reducer that’s great for daily use
Azelaic Acid – Fades pigmentation but also targets acne and redness, making it perfect for post-acne skin
Kojic Acid – Derived from fungi, this one’s potent, start slow to avoid irritation
Licorice Root Extract – Brightens without the risk of over-exfoliation

3. Retinoids

Now, we get to the real heavy hitters. Retinoids speed up cell turnover, which helps bring pigmented cells to the surface so they can shed faster. Unfortunately, they can be very irritating, and can wreak havoc on your skin barrier if not introduced into your routine correctly. There are also different types of retinoids—from over-the-counter options to prescription strength—and choosing the right one largely comes down to your skin type and experience level with retinoids.

Nevertheless, it’s one of the best ingredients for fading marks, if used with caution.

Products I Recommend

When it comes to fading dark marks, you often need to take a multi-pronged approach, combining various actives to target hyperpigmentation in different ways. I like to use products that combine a few of my favorite actives into one dark spot fighting treatment:

Topicals Faded Brightening and Clearing Serum (formulated with a number of brightening ingredients including azelaic acid and kojic acid)
Remedy for Dark Spots (another potent, multi-active serum that contains retinol, kojic acid, licorice root, among others)
Paula's Choice 1% Retinol Treatment with Peptides + Vitamin C (also contains licorice root extract)

Step 3: Sunscreen. Sunscreen. Sunscreen.

You can use the most expensive actives on the planet, but if you skip sunscreen, you’re basically undoing all your hard work. UV exposure is the biggest trigger for pigmentation.

For me, daily sunscreen is a non-negotiable step, even on days when I wasn’t leaving the house. Look for:

Broad-spectrum SPF 50 PA++++ which protects against both UVA and UVB
Lightweight, non-comedogenic textures can be beneficial for acne-prone skin, and you’re more likely to apply and reapply them
Mineral sunscreens especially with zinc oxide can be less irritating for sensitive skin, and the addition of zinc provides an acne calming effect. Tinted mineral sunscreens can be especially good at fading hyperpigmentation because they help protect against visible light in addition to UVA and UVB rays.

Some favorites for oily, acne-prone skin:

Colorescience Sunforgettable Total Protection Face Shield Flex SPF 50 (tinted mineral sunscreen)
Elta MD UV Clear Broad Spectrum SPF 46 (hybrid sunscreen with zinc oxide)
Paula’s Choice Youth Extending Daily Hydrating Fluid (hybrid sunscreen that contains antioxidants for additional brightening)

Step 4: If Nothing Seems to Work, See a Dermatologist

If you’ve been consistent with your skincare for a few months, using sunscreen, brightening actives, and barrier-repairing ingredients, but those marks still won’t fade, it might be time to call in the professionals.

Post-acne hyperpigmentation can be stubborn, especially on medium to deep skin tones. Sometimes, over-the-counter ingredients just aren’t strong enough to make a visible difference, and that’s where a dermatologist can help by providing prescription treatments.

Prescription Treatments That Can Help

1. Hydroquinone

Hydroquinone is a tyrosinase inhibitor that is often considered the gold standard for treating hyperpigmentation. Because it’s powerful, it should always be used under medical supervision. Dermatologists usually recommend short-term use (typically a few months) and may alternate it with milder brighteners like azelaic acid or arbutin to minimize side effects.

2. Prescription-Strength Retinoids (like Tretinoin)

If you’ve tried over-the-counter retinoids and haven’t seen much change, a dermatologist can prescribe tretinoin, a stronger, faster-acting retinoid. It increases cell turnover, smooths texture, and fades pigmentation over time. It can be a game changer when used correctly, but it does come with an adjustment period, so you’ll want professional guidance on how to start slowly and avoid irritation.

3. Combination Formulas

Dermatologists often combine multiple actives in one cream (for instance, hydroquinone with tretinoin and a mild steroid) to target pigmentation more effectively. These custom blends are designed to deliver results faster but should only be used under the supervision of a medical professional.

Why Professional Guidance Matters

Pigmentation behaves differently on different skin tones. Treatments that work well for fair skin can sometimes worsen discoloration on brown or deeper skin if not used carefully. A dermatologist who understands this can tailor a plan that’s safe, gradual, and suited to your skin’s specific needs.

Bonus Tip: Your Diet Matters More Than You Think

Ok, I know this is a skincare focused blog, but skincare doesn’t have to end at your bathroom sink. What’s on your plate can have just as much impact on how quickly (or slowly) your post-acne marks fade.

Post-acne hyperpigmentation is a type of inflammation, and diet can either help reduce or amplify that inflammation.

What to Eat More Of:

Antioxidant-rich foods: Think berries, citrus fruits, leafy greens, tomatoes, and green tea, all packed with vitamins C and E that help your skin repair itself from within
Healthy fats: Omega-3s from salmon, chia seeds, and walnuts help regulate inflammation
Zinc-rich foods: Pumpkin seeds, chickpeas, and lentils, zinc is crucial for wound healing and regulating oil production

What to Avoid:

High-glycemic foods: Sugary drinks, white bread, pastries etc. spike blood sugar levels and trigger inflammation
Highly processed oils and fried foods: They promote oxidative stress, the very thing your antioxidants are working hard to fight
Dairy (for some people): The link isn’t universal, but some find that cutting back on dairy helps reduce breakouts and redness.

Final Thoughts

This image was taken roughly a year after the first images, at the top of this post. So, this story has a happy ending after all.

I get it, post-acne marks can test your patience like nothing else. They’re stubborn, slow to fade, and serve as daily reminders of breakouts you’ve already endured. But I’m proof that with the right combination of gentle healing, smart actives, and consistent sun protection, they can and will eventually go away.

The biggest lesson I learned through my own recovery wasn’t just about ingredients, it was about pacing myself and having patience. Skincare isn’t a race, and you can’t rush skin that’s trying to heal.

So if you’re in that frustrating phase where the acne is gone but the marks remain, take heart. Stick with your routine, simplify where you can, and trust the process. Because one morning, weeks or months from now, you’ll wake up, look in the mirror, and realize your skin has quietly evened itself out. And that’s the kind of progress that feels truly earned.

How to Fade Post-Acne Marks (Without Wrecking Your Skin Barrier)

Everything you need to know about treating post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and fading acne scars: the best ingredients for calming and brightening, plus dermatologist-prescribed treatments for stubborn pigmentation.

Step 1: Calm the Inflammation Before You Do Anything Else