Confused about tyrosinase inhibitors? This guide breaks down alpha arbutin, azelaic acid, and kojic acid—how they work, who should use them, and the best products for every skin type.

If you’ve ever gone down the rabbit hole of hyperpigmentation treatments, you’ve probably seen these three names pop up: alpha arbutin, azelaic acid, and recently, kojic acid. They're all part of a class of ingredients known as tyrosinase inhibitors.

Now, I don’t blame you if you zoned out halfway through reading the words tyrosinase inhibitors. These little guys could definitely use a catchier name, but bear with me while I attempt to provide a simple explanation of their benefits.

Tyrosinase is an enzyme found in melanocytes, the cells responsible for producing melanin. Melanin is the pigment that gives skin its color, and its overproduction can lead to hyperpigmentation, dark spots, and an uneven skin tone. Tyrosinase inhibitors, as the name suggests, work by obstructing the activity of tyrosinase, and regulating melanin production—resulting in a more balanced and even complexion.

TL:DR tyrosinase inhibitors help slow down melanin production at the source.

Phew, chemistry lesson over. Still with me? Ok, good. Because, while inhibiting melanin at the source sounds like a good thing (especially if you’re dealing with dark spots, melasma, or post-acne marks), not all tyrosinase inhibitors are created equal.

So, let’s break down how they work, who they’re really for, and how to choose the right one for your skin.

Who Should Care About Tyrosinase Inhibitors

Like I said earlier, tyrosinase is an enzyme that plays a key role in the production of melanin. When you inhibit tyrosinase, you essentially slow down the process that leads to dark spots and uneven skin tone.

This is helpful for people struggling with:

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) from acne or injuries
Melasma, a hormonally triggered pigmentation issue
Sun spots or age spots
Uneven skin tone from sun damage

But here’s the thing: if you don’t have pigmentation issues or you're using exfoliating acids, vitamin C, or retinoids regularly (all of which already help with tone), you might not need an extra tyrosinase inhibitor. In fact, overloading your routine can irritate the skin or cause rebound pigmentation, the very thing you’re trying to avoid.

Which Tyrosinase Inhibitor is Right for You?

If you’re 100%, most definitely sure your skin needs a tyrosinase inhibitor, then let’s talk about the three most common over-the-counter options. Each has strengths, weaknesses, and certain characteristics that make them a better fit for certain skin types or goals.

Best for Sensitive Skin: Alpha Arbutin

Alpha arbutin is a naturally occurring derivative of hydroquinone (one of the most potent prescription treatments for hyperpigmentation). Hydroquinone is no longer available over-the-counter in many countries because of its potential side effects (whether it’s really as scary is up for debate, but for now, it’s definitely hard to come by).

Alpha arbutin, on the other hand is a much gentler and safer form of this ingredient, and has additional antioxidant properties, similar to Vitamin C, making it one of the best and safest choices to start with.

Pros:

Very low irritation risk
Plays well with other actives
Safe for daily use

Cons:

Takes time to see visible results (think: 8–12 weeks)
Needs to be used consistently and with sun protection

Best for Acne-prone Skin: Azelaic Acid

My personal favourite, azelaic acid combines its tyrosinase inhibiting abilities with antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties to give you one super ingredient that targets both hyperpigmentation and acne. If you want to kill 2 skin concerns with one stone, azelaic acid can be your best friend.

However, one thing to note with azelaic acid is that its efficacy has only been proven at 15% or above—a strength which can only be obtained with a prescription. Most OTC formulations max out at 10%, which may not give you the same level of results.

Pros:

Combats multiple skin concerns at once
Has antioxidant, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties

Cons:

Higher strengths available by prescription only
Can be irritating at higher strengths

Best for Stubborn Dark Spots: Kojic Acid

Approach this one with caution. Of all the ingredients on this list, kojic acid has shown the most potent tyrosinase inhibitory activity in clinical studies—even more so than alpha arbutin and on par with hydroquinone.

However, as you may have guessed by now, more isn’t always better in skincare. The higher strength also means it can be irritating, especially for people with sensitive skin, which is why it’s only been approved for OTC sale in concentrations of 1% and below. I would opt for this if you suffer from really bad PIH or PIE and nothing else has worked.

Pros:

Stronger pigment-fading action than other tyrosinase inhibitors
Can show quicker results with consistent use

Cons:

Can irritate sensitive skin
Unstable in formulations (oxidizes easily)
Not ideal for layering with too many other actives

The Skinimalist’s Top Product Picks

Tyrosinase inhibitors are becoming more and more popular in skincare, and some of the products I’ve listed below even include more than one in their formulation. These are great if you want the benefit of multiple ingredients without adding multiple steps to your routine.

Naturium Tranexamic Topical Acid 5%

The labels may say ‘tranexamic acid’ (another great brightening agent, by the way), but make no mistake, this powerhouse brightening serum contains so much more. I prefer the topical formulation for my oily, acne-prone skin, infused with both kojic acid, and licorice root extract (also a tyrosinase inhibitor), bolstered with the brightening power of niacinamide.

If you can tolerate a slightly heavier, moisturiser like formulation, this product also comes in an emulsion form, which contains both kojic acid and alpha arbutin, alongside a host of other brightening ingredients.

Naturium Azelaic Topical Acid 10%

What can I say, Naturium does hyperpigmentation products really well! This product also comes in 2 formulations—one lighter and one more emulsified. And once again, I lean towards the topical formulation because of its lightweight texture, formulated with an azelaic acid derivative suited for more sensitive skin. Vitamin C, niacinamide and coffee seed extract provide additional brightening firepower here.

The emulsion on the other hand is formulated with 10% pure azelaic acid (the highest OTC concentration you can get), alongside another brightening agent, niacinamide, and a host of hydrating and soothing ingredients, including oat, squalane, and even lactobacillus ferment.

Reviva Labs Dark Spot Brightening Serum

I’ve said it once, and I’ll say it again. The skincare world is sleeping on this powerhouse serum from Reviva Labs, packed full of an intimidatingly long list of brightening ingredients. Niacinamide, glycolic acid, kojic acid, alpha arbutin, vitamin C, resveratrol, bearberry extract, licorice root extract—you name it, it’s got it. It’s one step that could replace multiple in your routine, but definitely start low and slow with something so potent.

Medicube Kojic Acid Turmeric Overnight Wrapping Mask

Ok, hear me out. I’m not one to usually recommend a product like a face mask, but if you want to get started with kojic acid just 1-2 times a week, this overnight mask from Medicube is the way to go. Formulated with koijc acid, alongside a high concentration of turmeric (an ingredient used for brightening since ancient times) and niacinamide, alongside low concentrations of vitamin c and retinol, this mask will give you an instant glow. Plus it’s just soooo satisfying to peel off after a few hours.

Dr. Idriss Major Fade Hyper Serum

If you’re lucky enough to live in the U.S., you can get your hands on this award-winning serum from dermatologist turned YouTuber, Dr. Shereene Idriss. Full disclosure, I haven’t had the chance to try it myself but have seen some rave reviews. This super serum gives you the double whammy of both alpha arbutin and kojic acid, alongside skin-brightening, niacinamide.

Final Thoughts: Are Tyrosinase Inhibitors Worth Adding to Your Routine?

Tyrosinase inhibitors can be a great tool against hyperpigmentation, especially for skin of colour. However, before you start, make sure your skin actually needs an additional brightening agent. I started using a tyrosinase inhibitor only after a bad acne flare-up that resulted in a lot of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Before that, I was happy with my daily Vitamin C.

If you’ve decided you need one, here’s your cheat sheet on which one to choose:

New to pigment correction? Start with alpha arbutin, especially if you’re already using other actives or have sensitive skin.

Dealing with acne AND dark spots? Reach for azelaic acid. It does more than just brighten—it soothes, smooths, and clears.
Struggling with stubborn melasma or deeper pigmentation? Kojic acid might be your MVP—just proceed with caution if your skin is reactive.

And remember: none of these will work miracles without sunscreen. Daily SPF is non-negotiable if you're serious about fading pigmentation — otherwise, you're just pouring brightening serums down the drain.

Alpha Arbutin vs Azelaic Acid vs Kojic Acid: Which is Right for Your Skin?

Confused about tyrosinase inhibitors? This guide breaks down alpha arbutin, azelaic acid, and kojic acid—how they work, who should use them, and the best products for every skin type.

Who Should Care About Tyrosinase Inhibitors