Struggling with dark spots, melasma, or post-acne marks? Learn how alpha arbutin, azelaic acid, and kojic acid work—and which one is right for your skin type and concerns.

If you’ve ever gone down the rabbit hole of hyperpigmentation treatments, you’ve probably seen these three names pop up: alpha arbutin, azelaic acid, and recently, kojic acid. They're all part of a class of ingredients known as tyrosinase inhibitors.

Now, I don’t blame you if you zoned out halfway through reading the words tyrosinase inhibitors. These little guys could definitely use a catchier name, but bear with me while I attempt to provide a simple explanation of their benefits.

Tyrosinase is an enzyme found in melanocytes, the cells responsible for producing melanin. Melanin is the pigment that gives skin its color, and its overproduction can lead to hyperpigmentation, dark spots, and an uneven skin tone. Tyrosinase inhibitors, as the name suggests, work by obstructing the activity of tyrosinase, and regulating melanin production—resulting in a more balanced and even complexion.

TL:DR tyrosinase inhibitors help slow down melanin production at the source.

Phew, chemistry lesson over. Still with me? Ok, good. Because, while inhibiting melanin at the source sounds like a good thing (especially if you’re dealing with dark spots, melasma, or post-acne marks), not all tyrosinase inhibitors are created equal.

So, let’s break down how they work, who they’re really for, and how to choose the right one for your skin.

Who Should Care About Tyrosinase Inhibitors

Like I said earlier, tyrosinase is an enzyme that plays a key role in the production of melanin. When you inhibit tyrosinase, you essentially slow down the process that leads to dark spots and uneven skin tone.

This is helpful for people struggling with:

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) from acne or injuries
Melasma, a hormonally triggered pigmentation issue
Sun spots or age spots
Uneven skin tone from sun damage

But here’s the thing: if you don’t have pigmentation issues or you're using exfoliating acids, vitamin C, or retinoids regularly (all of which already help with tone), you might not need an extra tyrosinase inhibitor. In fact, overloading your routine can irritate the skin or cause rebound pigmentation, the very thing you’re trying to avoid.

Alpha Arbutin, Azelaic Acid, or Kojic Acid: Which is Right for You?

If your current hyperpigmentation routine isn’t quite doing it for you, and you think you need to add a tyrosinase inhibitor, then let’s talk about which of these three popular options is best for you. Each has strengths, weaknesses, and certain characteristics that make them a better fit for certain skin types or goals.

For Sensitive Skin: Alpha Arbutin

Alpha arbutin is a naturally occurring derivative of hydroquinone (one of the most potent prescription treatments for hyperpigmentation). Hydroquinone is no longer available over-the-counter in many countries because of its potential side effects (whether it’s really as scary is up for debate, but for now, it’s definitely hard to come by).

Alpha arbutin, on the other hand is a much gentler and safer form of this ingredient, and has additional antioxidant properties, similar to Vitamin C, making it one of the best and safest choices to start with.

Pros:

Very low irritation risk
Plays well with other actives
Safe for daily use

Cons:

Takes time to see visible results (think: 8–12 weeks)
Needs to be used consistently and with sun protection

For Acne-prone Skin: Azelaic Acid

My personal favourite, azelaic acid combines its tyrosinase inhibiting abilities with antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties to give you one super ingredient that targets both hyperpigmentation and acne. If you want to kill 2 skin concerns with one stone, azelaic acid can be your best friend.

However, one thing to note with azelaic acid is that its efficacy has only been proven at 15% or above—a strength which can only be obtained with a prescription. Most OTC formulations max out at 10%, which may not give you the same level of results.

Pros:

Combats multiple skin concerns at once
Has antioxidant, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties

Cons:

Higher strengths available by prescription only
Can be irritating at higher strengths

For Stubborn Dark Spots: Kojic Acid

Approach this one with caution. Of all the ingredients on this list, kojic acid has shown the most potent tyrosinase inhibitory activity in clinical studies—even more so than alpha arbutin and on par with hydroquinone.

However, as you may have guessed by now, more isn’t always better in skincare. The higher strength also means it can be irritating, especially for people with sensitive skin, which is why it’s only been approved for OTC sale in concentrations of 1% and below. I would opt for this if you suffer from really bad PIH or PIE and nothing else has worked.

Pros:

Stronger pigment-fading action than other tyrosinase inhibitors
Can show quicker results with consistent use

Cons:

Can irritate sensitive skin
Unstable in formulations (oxidizes easily)
Not ideal for layering with too many other actives

My Top Product Picks

Tyrosinase inhibitors are becoming more and more popular in skincare, and some of the products I’ve listed below even include more than one in their formulation. These are great if you want the benefit of multiple ingredients without adding multiple steps to your routine.

Full disclosure: I do make a teensy little commission from the links below, so if you found this article helpful and want to purchase any of these products, I’d love if you could show some support for this blog.

Naturium Tranexamic Topical Acid 5%

The labels may say ‘tranexamic acid’ (another great brightening ingredient, by the way), but make no mistake, this powerhouse brightening serum contains so much more. I prefer the topical formulation for my oily, acne-prone skin, infused with both kojic acid, and licorice root extract (also a tyrosinase inhibitor), bolstered with the brightening power of niacinamide.

If you can tolerate a slightly heavier, moisturiser like formulation, this product also comes in an emulsion form, which contains both kojic acid and alpha arbutin, alongside a host of other brightening ingredients.

Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum

If you’re acne and redness prone, look no further than the popular new Azelaic Acid 10 serum from Anua. It contains 10% azelaic acid (the highest available OTC strength) and niacinamide for brightening, but is also loaded with soothing and calming ingredients like aloe, centella asiatica, squalane, and ceramides, not to mention a hydrating buffet of panthenol, beta-glucan and glycerin. Trust me

Allies of Skin Azelaic & Kojic Advanced Clarifying Face Serum

Ok, hear me out. I’ll be the first to admit that this serum comes with a hefty price tag. And usually I try and find more affordable dupes for most high-end, luxury products, but unfortunately I just can’t find a formulation quite this perfect if what you’re looking for is a powerhouse tyrosinase inhibitor product. The Allies of Skin Azelaic & Kojic Advanced Clarifying Face Serum comes with 10% azelaic acid, 1% kojic acid, alongside more brightening and clarifying power from liquorice root extract and bakuchiol (a popular, gentler retinol alternative).

Medicube Kojic Acid Turmeric Overnight Wrapping Mask

I’m not one to usually recommend a product like a face mask, but if you want to get started with kojic acid just 1-2 times a week, this overnight mask from Medicube is the way to go. Formulated with koijc acid, alongside a high concentration of turmeric (an ingredient used for brightening since ancient times) and niacinamide, alongside low concentrations of vitamin c and retinol, this mask will give you an instant glow. Plus it’s just soooo satisfying to peel off after a few hours.

Topicals Faded Brightening and Clearing Serum

I usually try not to recommend products that I haven’t tried for myself, but I absolutely had to include this serum on the list (even though I haven’t had a chance to use it myself), because it contains not 1, not 2, but all 3 of the tyrosinase inhibitors we’ve just talked about. That’s right, the Topicals Faded serum has gained a cult following for a reason. It contains kojic acid, azelaic acid, AND alpha arbutin, alongside more brightening firepower from glutathione, tranexamic acid, liqourice root extract, niacinamide, and turmeric butter. If there’s a product out there that contains more brightening ingredients, I’m not aware of it!

It might be a little strong for those with sensitive skin, but if you have normal skin and really can’t decide which tyrosinase inhibitor to try, this may be for you. If you have tried it before, let me know how you liked it.

Final Thoughts: Are Tyrosinase Inhibitors Worth Adding to Your Routine?

Tyrosinase inhibitors can be a great tool against hyperpigmentation, especially for skin of colour. However, before you start, make sure your skin actually needs an additional brightening agent. I started using a tyrosinase inhibitor only after a bad acne flare-up that resulted in a lot of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Before that, I was happy with my daily Vitamin C.

If you’ve decided you need one, here’s your cheat sheet on which one to choose:

New to pigment correction? Start with alpha arbutin, especially if you’re already using other actives or have sensitive skin.

Dealing with acne AND dark spots? Reach for azelaic acid. It does more than just brighten—it soothes, smooths, and clears.
Struggling with stubborn melasma or deeper pigmentation? Kojic acid might be your MVP—just proceed with caution if your skin is reactive.

And remember: none of these will work miracles without sunscreen. Daily SPF is non-negotiable if you're serious about fading pigmentation — otherwise, you're just pouring brightening serums down the drain.

Alpha Arbutin vs Azelaic Acid vs Kojic Acid: Which is Right for Your Skin?

Struggling with dark spots, melasma, or post-acne marks? Learn how alpha arbutin, azelaic acid, and kojic acid work—and which one is right for your skin type and concerns.

Who Should Care About Tyrosinase Inhibitors