Not sure which retinoid to use? This is your ultimate guide to how retinoids work, choosing the right product for your skin, and adding it to your routine without irritation.

In the ever-changing world of skincare, few ingredients are as revered and feared in equal measure as retinoids. If estheticians, influencers, and the amateur skintellectual can agree on one thing, it’s that retinoids work. This beloved and well-researched ingredient has long been praised as the gold standard for everything from acne to aging and even hyperpigmentation, but equally whispered about in tales of flaking, redness, and the dreaded purge.

More confusing is the fact that it’s available in various forms—including retinol, retinaldehyde (or retinal), and prescription-only retinoids like Tretinoin or Tazarotene. So, before you get started with a retinoid, it’s important to understand what you’re getting into, which one to choose for your skin, and how to build a retinoid routine that won’t send your skin straight to irritation nation.

How Do Retinoids Work?

"Retinoid" is the umbrella term for all vitamin A derivatives used in skincare. These compounds work by binding to receptors in the skin to increase cell turnover, stimulate collagen production, fade hyperpigmentation, reduce acne, and improve skin texture. Retinoids are backed by decades of research, and is one of the few ingredients that dermatologists almost unanimously recommend.

However, reversing the cell turnover clock comes with a long list of side-effects, especially at stronger concentrations. These include:

Potential irritation: including dryness, redness, sensitivity and peeling when first starting out or if using too frequently.

Sensitivity to sun: increasing the risk of sunburn and UV damage.

Initial purging: Some people may experience an initial purging period when starting retinoids, seeing by increased breakouts and skin flaking as the skin adjusts to the ingredient.

That said, most of the horror stories stem from either starting too strong, using them too often, or not protecting your skin barrier alongside.

The 5 Main Types of Retinoids in Skincare

One thing you need to know about retinoids is that they’re not all created equal. They work by converting into retinoic acid, which is the active form of vitamin A your skin uses. The fewer conversions needed, the stronger (and potentially more irritating) the product.

So, with that in mind, let’s talk about the 5 main types of retinoids in skincare, starting from weakest and building our way up to the strongest.

1. Retinyl Palmitate: The Ultra-Gentle Introduction

Retinyl palmitate, a vitamin A ester, is the most stable and weak form of topical vitamin A. It requires multiple conversions in the skin (retinyl palmitate → retinol → retinal → retinoic acid) before becoming active, which means it's less effective than other retinoids, but also much, MUCH gentler. It tends to be commonly found in moisturizers and eye creams for this reason. It’s definitely the least effective retinoid, and is a little bit overhyped, in my opinion, but can be good for complete beginners.

2. Retinol: The Most Popular OTC Option

Retinol is the most widely available OTC retinoid. It’s considered gentler because it needs to convert twice in the skin before becoming active retinoic acid (retinol → retinal → retinoic acid), however many people still experience irritation when using it for the first time. The great thing about retinol is that it’s easily available in a variety of formulations, strengths, and price points, and is often paired with other beneficial ingredients in these formulations. However, the risk of irritation is ever present, so start out low and slow.

3. Retinal (aka Retinaldehyde): The Up-and-Comer

Retinal has recently gained much more popularity in OTC formulations, and for good reason. This retinoid only needs one conversion to become retinoic acid (retinal → retinoic acid), making it more potent and faster-acting than retinol. The interesting thing about retinal is that despite being stronger, many people (myself included) actually experience less irritation from it. This may be because most of the products formulated with retinal are elegant formulations, which come with equally elegant (read: $$$) price tags.

4. Adapalene: The Acne-Fighter

Formerly prescription-only, adapalene is a synthetic retinoid that’s now available over-the-counter in many countries. It’s already in an active form of vitamin A, but is quite a bit less irritating than most prescription retinoids. It’s actually FDA approved for acne treatment, and has been well researched for its anti-inflammatory benefits. While it’s anti-aging benefits are less studied, there is plenty of anecdotal evidence to suggest it can be effective against wrinkles and hyperpigmentation too.

5. Tretinoin: The Prescription Powerhouse

The gold standard for anti-aging, tretinoin is a prescription only retinoid that is already in the pure retinoic acid form, no conversions needed. This makes it the fastest-acting, but also the most irritating. It is undoubtedly the most effective retinoid, backed by decades of clinical research and can provide dramatic results if used consistently, but getting your skin used to it, takes a lot of time and patience. Start too early, too often or too strong, and you’re in for a world of pain,

Choosing the Right Retinoid for Your Skin

If you’ve made it this far, you’re probably wondering, “Okay, thanks for the chemistry lesson, but which retinoid should I actually use?” Great question, because when it comes to retinoids, picking the right one can make all the difference.

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For Sensitive Skin or Total Beginners

Try: Retinyl Palmitate or a low-strength retinol (even better if it’s encapsulated retinol, which releases more slowly into the skin). Start slow, and aim for gentle formulas in the forms of creams. These are the gateway retinoids. Less potent, but less irritating too.

Products I recommend:

For Acne-Prone Skin

Try: Adapalene. While all retinoids target acne to some degree, none have been studied more as an acne treatment than adapalene gel. It’s stable, not very irritating, and is fungal-acne safe as well. Plus, now that it’s available over-the-counter, there’s no reason to reach for anything else. If you can’t get access to adapalene gel near you, look instead for a retinol that’s formulated with additional acne-fighting or skin-calming ingredients.

Products I recommend:

For Results-Oriented, Intermediate Users

Try: A higher-strength retinol or retinal, formulated alongside other anti-aging ingredients. Unfortunately, the stronger the retinoid, the better the results. That doesn’t mean you go out there and start with the most potent one, but as your skin starts getting used to retinoids, it might make sense to take the step up to some of these more effective formulations.

Products I recommend:

Paula’s Choice 1% Retinol Treatment with Peptides + Vitamin C
Youth To The People Retinal + Niacinamide Youth Serum
Medik8 Crystal Retinal (available in various strengths)
Allies of Skin Retinal 0.05% & Peptides Repair Night Cream (also available in 0.1% formulation)

For the Budget-Conscious

Try: Retinol or retinal in more basic formulations. I’ll be the first to admit that the products I recommended for the results-oriented user above were definitely on the more high-end side. But unfortunately, that tends to be the case where we’re talking about an ingredient that’s so tricky to formulate with. Still, there are some effective, yet budget-friendly alternatives which come in slightly simpler formulations too.

Products I recommend:

Geek & Gorgeous - A-Game 10-0.1% Retinal Serum (available in various strengths)
SEOUL 1988 Serum: Retinal Liposome 2% + Black Gingeng
The Ordinary Retinol 1% in Squalane

When to Step Up to a Prescription Retinoid

Prescription-strength retinoids are starting to get much easier to obtain, with online dermatologists providing prescriptions after a simple virtual consult. Even so, there’s no need to jump to a prescription strength retinoid if you’re still seeing results from your OTC products. I would only recommend taking the step up to prescription strength if:

You’ve been using OTC retinoids for a long time (for me, that was about 5 years), have steadily increased your concentration, and are starting to see results slow down
You’re in your mid-to-late 30s, and signs of aging are your primary skin concern
You suffer from conditions like cystic acne, which require medical intervention

Tips for Getting Started With a Retinoid

Once you’ve identify the right retinoid for your skin, it’s time to incorporate it into your routine. Retinoids can be tricky to use if not handled wisely. The good news? You can absolutely reap the benefits without wrecking your barrier. Here's how:

1. Start Low and Slow

Whether you’re dipping your toes in with the mildest retinyl palmitate product, or going in headfirst with something stronger like a retinol or even tretinoin, start by using a literal pea-sized amount of product only 2–3 nights a week, leaving a day or two in between. This gives your skin time to adjust and reduces the risk of irritation. If you're using something stronger like retinal or tretinoin, you may even want to start with once a week, then build up slowly over a month. Just don’t go full beast mode right from the start.

2. Apply on Dry Skin, Right After Cleansing

I recommend applying stronger retinoids straight after cleansing, on to absolutely dry skin (unless it’s a cream or low-strength serum, in which case, it can be applied later). When you apply skincare on damp skin, it increases the rate at which the product penetrates the skin. With something as potent as a strong retinoid, that’s something you really don’t want happening. To minimize irritation, your retinoid should be step 1 in your routine after cleansing.

3. Use Your Moisturizer As a Buffer if You Need

If you’ve applied your retinoid on to dry skin, and it’s still causing irritation, then try the “sandwich method” instead:

Apply a layer of moisturizer,
Wait a few minutes, apply your retinoid,
Then seal it all in with another layer of moisturizer.

This method “buffers” the retinoid and helps reduce irritation without completely compromising effectiveness. It’s especially helpful for sensitive skin or when using stronger formulas.

4. Focus on Hydration & Barrier Support

I like to keep my retinoid routine pretty basic, but if there’s one other thing I always include, it’s a good hydrating, barrier supporting product. Retinoids can wreak havoc on your moisture barrier, and cause your skin to become dry and irritated extremely quickly. To negate that, I like to include a product like the Anua Rice Ceramide Hydrating Barrier Serum or the Heveblue Salmon Caring Centella Toner in my routine. And of course, I seal it all in with an equally soothing moisturizer. A couple of my favorites are the Dr.G RED Blemish Clear Soothing Cream and the Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid Peptide Cream.

5. Always Use at Night

Retinoids break down in sunlight and make your skin more sun-sensitive, making them ineffective (and very irritating) when worn during the day. PM only is the rule (and there are no exceptions to this one).

6. Sunscreen Isn’t Optional

Because retinoids make your skin more sensitive to UV rays, daily SPF is non-negotiable. If you’re not already wearing sunscreen daily… what are you even doing? Even on cloudy days or indoors, sun protection is crucial when you're using retinoids. Trust me, there's no point working on signs of aging and pigmentation if you’re just going to undo it by skipping SPF.

7. Don’t Try and Play Chemist

Retinoids don’t play nice with other actives, especially those that also target aging and acne. Be cautious when combining them with potentially sensitizing exfoliants like AHAs/BHAs, vitamin C, or benzoyl peroxide. If you really need these ingredients in your routine, you can do so by either using them in your day time routine, or using skin cycling to incorporate them on alternate days.

Final Thoughts

Retinoids may be universally revered, but they definitely aren’t a one-size-fits-all situation. Whether you’re dipping your toe in with retinol or ready to go prescription-strength, there’s a retinoid out there that can work for you. The key is choosing smartly (not just jumping on the strongest option), being patient, and not losing sight of your end goal.

I hope this post helped you find the right retinoid for your skin. If you still have more questions, leave them in the comments below.

Retinol, Retinal or a Prescription Retinoid: How to Choose the Right One for Your Skin

Not sure which retinoid to use? This is your ultimate guide to how retinoids work, choosing the right product for your skin, and adding it to your routine without irritation.

How Do Retinoids Work?

The 5 Main Types of Retinoids in Skincare