Why Azelaic Acid Deserves the Hype It’s Getting from SkinTok
This isn’t just a trend. Azelaic acid is a tried-and-true ingredient that tackles acne, redness, and pigmentation, without irritating your skin. Here’s everything you need to know about it.
If you’ve been paying attention to online skintellectuals, skinfluencers, or skincare social as a whole, you may have heard of azelaic acid.
It isn’t just having a moment. It is the moment.
And for once the hype may honestly have been earned. So, let’s talk about how this prescription-only favorite made its way to over-the-counter darling, rescuing both, acne-prone and melanin-rich, skin at the same time.
A Quick History: From Prescription Product to Skincare Star
Azelaic acid is one of those ingredients that's been flying under the radar for decades, quietly prescribed by dermatologists for acne, rosacea, and pigmentation. It first got FDA approval back in the 90s—long before TikTok was ever a thing. But its roots go even deeper: researchers started studying it in the 70s for its anti-inflammatory and pigmentation-fighting abilities. So yeah, this isn't new.
The difference now? A growing number of over-the-counter formulas have made it more accessible—and more appealing—to people looking for results without irritation.
It’s important to note though that OTC formulations max out at 10%, whereas most studies that prove its efficacy have been carried out at 15% or higher (which is still only available with a prescription). Still, there is evidence to suggest that OTC formulations do provide similar benefits, but at a slower, gentler pace.
What Does Azelaic Acid Actually Do?
Azelaic acid is a lab-made version of a naturally occurring acid found in grains like barley and wheat. It’s become an absolute cult favorite for clear skin because it packs a rare 1-2 punch, treating both acne and hyperpigmentation at the same time.
In skincare, it’s been proven effective (at concentrations of 10%–20%) for:
Treating acne by reducing bacteria and clogged pores
Fading pigmentation by inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme involved in melanin production
Soothing redness and inflammation, which is especially helpful for rosacea or sensitive skin
Perhaps what’s most impressive about azelaic acid is that it delivers these incredible results, while causing minimal irritation—something that can’t be said about fellow superstar ingredients like retinoids or Vitamin C. It works in its own quiet, effective way, which is part of why it’s suitable for people who can’t tolerate more intense ingredients.
Why It’s Suddenly Trending
The shift toward more minimal, barrier-friendly routines has opened the door for ingredients like azelaic acid. As more people back away from strong actives, over-exfoliating and “doing the most,” they’re turning to actives that are steady, reliable, and don’t wreck the skin barrier.
Dermatologists have also been talking about azelaic acid more openly on social media, especially for skin of colour (like mine) where hyperpigmentation is a key concern. It’s pregnancy-safe, doesn’t increase sun sensitivity, and can be used alongside many other actives. In short, it checks a lot of boxes.
Azelaic acid can be helpful for:
Acne-prone skin (especially hormonal or adult acne)
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and melasma
Rosacea or red, reactive skin
Sensitive skin that can’t tolerate stronger actives
People avoiding retinoids due to pregnancy or skin sensitivity
It works particularly well for medium to deeper skin tones prone to discoloration—and it's a nice alternative when other ingredients feel too strong or too risky.
Personally, I reached for azelaic acid while experiencing a bad breakout of hormonal acne after having damaged my skin barrier. Traditional acne treatments, like exfoliants, retinoids and benzoyl peroxide, were actually making my acne worse by causing more irritation and barrier damage. Just when I was losing hope, azelaic acid stepped up to treat my acne in a gentle manner, and even helped lighten the post-acne redness and marks that had been left behind. It was truly the hero I never knew I needed.
How to Use Azelaic Acid
The best thing about azelaic acid is that it’s very hard to get it wrong. As long as you’re not overloading your routine with too many products, it shouldn’t cause any irritation or other problems.
Even though it’s usually fairly well tolerated, as with any new product, I would start 2-3 times a week, and then work your way up to daily use if your skin tolerates it. It can be used either morning or night, and plays well with most other actives, so you could combine it with your stronger vitamin C or retinoids if you like. Just be patient with this one, because results won’t be immediate. Think of it as a long-game ingredient, gently improving texture, clarity, and discoloration over time.
Products to Look For
When it comes to products, look for azelaic acid in concentrations of at least 10% in OTC formulations. Also, pay attention to the supporting ingredients in the product to find something that suits your your needs. Here are some of my personal favorites to get you started:
I’d recommend the Anua serum for sensitive skin, Paula’s Choice for more acne-prone skin because it also contains salicylic acid, Naturium as a good all-rounder, and Allies of Skin, with both azelaic and kojic acid, for brightening fire power (warning: that last one does come with a rather hefty price tag). If you have access to a derm, you may want to consider prescription strength as well.
Full disclosure: I do make a teeny little commission from these links, so consider supporting this blog if you found this article helpful.
Final Thoughts: Is It Worth the Hype?
The answer to that is: ummm, kind of. Azelaic acid is having its moment, and for good reason. It may not give you an overnight transformation, but it’s a workhorse that quietly improves tone, texture, and inflammation over time without triggering breakouts, dryness, or irritation. That’s rare.
If you’ve been burned (literally) by trendier actives, or you want a routine that works smarter—not harder—azelaic acid might just be your new best friend. I love ingredients that target multiple skincare concerns and allow us to do more with less, and azelaic acid is just that.
About The Skinimalist
Hi, I’m Mal, a 30-something recovering skincare addict, and this is my blog. A space where I attempt to de-influence you from chasing trends and buying more skincare products you may not need.
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This isn’t just a trend. Azelaic acid is a tried-and-true ingredient that tackles acne, redness, and pigmentation, without irritating your skin. Here’s everything you need to know about it.