Do You Really Need an Oil Cleanser to Double Cleanse?

Think you have to use an oil cleanser for double cleansing? Not always. Learn why micellar water can be just as effective—and how to choose the right first cleanse for your skin type.

If you’re a regular viewer of skincare content on social media, you’ve probably been told by multiple influencers (very confidently, might I add) that the first step of any respectable double cleanse must be an oil cleanser or balm. But the truth is that, in skincare, there are no absolutes. And while an oil cleanser might work beautifully for a lot of people, it’s not going to be universally loved by all skin types.

In fact, for many of us, especially those with oily, acne-prone, or sensitive skin, micellar water can be an equally effective, and in some cases better, first step. So, let’s talk about double cleansing (and why the Internet has only got it half right).

First: What Is Double Cleansing, Really?

Double cleansing simply means using two cleansers in a row. Like many of today’s most popular skincare trends, it became popularized by Kbeauty, as a way to make sure you remove every last bit of makeup, sunscreen, grime, or sweat you may have picked up during the day. Usually, a double cleanse consists of:

The First cleanse: To remove sunscreen, makeup, and excess sebum.

Second cleanse: To cleanse the skin itself—sweat, pollution, dead skin, and anything your first cleanse didn’t catch.

The goal is cleaner skin without over-stripping it. It’s especially helpful if you wear sunscreen (which you absolutely should), makeup, or live in a humid or polluted climate. Where social media takes a hard left is in assuming the first step has to involve oil. And that’s where things get a little…murky, for me.

Oil-based Cleanser vs Micellar Water: What’s the Difference?

Now, social media will tell you that you absolutely have to use an oil-based cleanser for your first cleanse, but I’m here to disagree (as I often like to do).

Oil Cleansers & Balms

First things first, I’m not anti-oil-cleansing. There’s a reason so many people swear by this method, and that’s because it often does work. Many of the impurities we’re trying to get rid of at the end of the day—sunscreen, makeup, sebum—are oil or silicone based, and oil-based cleansers do a great job of dissolving them. Oil attracts oil (thank you, 6th grade chemistry), so oil cleansers bond to the oils and dirt on your skin and draw the excess out.

I’ll also be the first to admit that watching makeup melt away when you gently rub a balm into your face is *chef’s kiss* perfection.

Pros:

• It won’t strip your skin, so it’s great for dry or dehydrated skin types

• Excellent at breaking down heavy makeup or waterproof SPF

• Feels oh-so luxurious and nourishing

Cons:

• May leave a film or residue if not rinsed well

• Some formulas can clog pores or trigger breakouts in acne-prone skin

• Often contain fragrance or essential oils that may irritate sensitive skin

Micellar Water

Now micellar water, contrary to its name, is not really a water at all. It’s actually made of micelles—tiny oil-like molecules suspended in soft water. These micelles attract dirt, oil, and makeup, getting rid of them with one swipe of your cotton pad.

So in short, oil attracts oil, but micelles attract both oil and water. That to me, is just the best of both worlds.

Pros:

• So gentle and lightweight

• No oily residue (though please follow up the a second cleanse, nonetheless)

• Likely to be suitable for all skin types

• Quick and lazy-girl-friendly

Cons:

• Might not remove heavy or waterproof makeup as easily

• Doesn’t feel as luxurious

Why I Eventually Switched to Micellar Water

I’ll be the first to admit that I was all-in on the oil cleansing hype train. It felt like the “right” thing to do, especially since every night time skincare routine on social media started with one.

I tried multiple oils and balms, thinking I just hadn’t found the right one yet. Some even worked pretty well for a while, the Farmacy Green Clean Balm and the Hemish All Clean Balm were simple options that worked fairly well for a week or two. But eventually the breakouts would come. Usually small and in clusters around my forehead or chin. I tried to find other culprits in my routine, but I couldn’t pin the blame anywhere else.

Eventually, I just had to admit that for people with oily, acne-prone skin, oil-based cleansers can sometimes do more harm than good. They can leave behind residue and clog pores, even if you’re sure you’ve washed them off really well.

So, I switched to micellar water, and saw a marked difference. No more unexplained congestion, no more random unprovoked breakouts. Today, my double cleansing routine is simple:

• First Cleanse with the OG Bioderma Sensiobio Micellar Water

• Second Cleanse with a gentle foaming cleanser (my current obsession is the BePlain Mung Bean cleanser)

A Few Tips for Double Cleansing the Right Way

If you decide to use micellar water as your first cleanse, here are a few things to keep in mind:

• Always follow up with a second cleanser. A lot of micellar water brands will tell you it doesn’t need to be rinsed off—don’t listen to them. Please wash it off well with a second cleanse before starting your skincare routine.

• Don’t be afraid to go in with more than one cotton pad. If you’re wearing stubborn makeup, you may need 2 or 3 cotton pads soaked in micellar water to get the job done. Try a face cloth if you want to be more environmentally conscious, but remember to wash it after every use!

• Use a micellar water with minimal ingredients. Look for fragrance-free, alcohol-free options like the ones from Bioderma, Garnier or La Roche Posay.

Final Thoughts: Do What Works for Your Skin

Double cleansing is a great method—but how you do it should depend on your skin, not what TikTok told you. Oil-based cleansers aren’t inherently better. They’re just one option. If micellar water works for you, keep using it. And if you’re breaking out from oil cleansers? You’re not alone.

The goal isn’t to follow a trend. It’s to get clean, healthy skin without overcomplicating things.

About The Skinimalist

Hi, I’m Mal, a 30-something recovering skincare addict, and this is my blog. A space where I attempt to de-influence you from chasing trends and buying more skincare products you may not need.

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